Wednesday, September 2, 2009

Not much happening here...

It's been pretty much flat here since Saturday and I've been less than enthused which is why the lack of updates. The next swell is set to arrive just as I depart on Friday, which is how it goes I guess! I've been spending the day relaxing and catching up on the happenings of the world and seeing to my lately ignored trading account(in regards to this, it was probably the best timing ever to be able to ignore considering the unstoppable advance in the world markets up until this week).
Luckily, the hotel has a guitar that was left by notable guest Donavan Frankenreiter. I have been playing in the evening while enjoying a few Pilseners(the local cervesa!) I'm sure Donavan in his expansive surf trip experience knew that leaving his guitar might very well save the sanity of a guest or two during flat spells! Thanks Donavan!!!!
All of the guests who were here when I arrived have now left, and some new guests have filtered in every day. The mood is pretty sour considering the lack of surf, it has been flat since all the new guests have gotten here. I keep trying to tell them that just one day of good waves will make the trip worth it and it will! When the point here is doing it's thing, it is the most fun wave I've surfed! It's one of those waves that make you feel like a better surfer than you are because you can really do like ten turns on one wave! I'm hoping for one more good session Friday AM before heading to the airport. I've tried a few times to upload more pictures, but I keep getting error messages. I put a few on my FB page so you can check them there if you're interested!
I'm really looking forward to getting home this weekend and spending the week in Pawleys. My drive home from LA that will take place from Sept 14th to the first of October is going to be interesting as well and I'm looking forward to that as well. I've met a few people here from the Pacific Northwest and thru talking to them, I have plenty of recommendations on places to go check out! I'm told it is possible to snowboard in the AM and surf in the afternoon in Oregon on the same day, so I'm strongly considering giving that a go, time permitting!
I realized another cool tidbit that I haven't shared but I doubt many people can say the same: In the third week of August I surfed in the Indian, Pacific, and Atlantic Oceans! I thin that's pretty cool!! Perhaps I need to try and get a session in somewhere in the Arctic Ocean. I think I'll need a more serious wetsuit than my 3/2!

Hope all is well and looking forward to seeing most of you this weekend!


  1. Hate to hear that the surf has benn flat the past couple of days but at least you can jam out. Hope you get a little more surfing in and look foward to hearing some stories and seeing you this weekend.


  2. Glad you found the Guitar. Maybe the surf will get better Friday Am for you. We're ready for stories, too. You sure have lots to tell us all. Can't wait to see you.

    Love you, Mom