Friday, July 31, 2009

Day 11, PM.

Just got to my hotel in LA, it's called the Custom Hotel. It's really cool and modern and was less than 100 bucks! Seems just as nice as the W, but much less expensive(!

Surfed at Malibu this afternoon which was really cool! By far the most chill people in the line-up! Everyone was friendly, talking and laughing, probably enjoying the thin crowd. The waves were small but up peeling nicely. The wind was offshore and some rides were more than 100 yards, peeling ever so slowly down the beach. I was the only person who was on a short-board, but I did ride my 6"3""(my largest) and pretended it was a funboard. I did a couple of cheater-fives and nobody seemed to notice I wasn't riding a log! The water was colder than the more southern breaks I surfed. I didn't wear my wetsuit, but would have needed it if I wanted to stay out longer. The water was probably 65 0r 70.

Traffic in LA county sucks! I'm sure everyone was going to the beach for the weekend, but it took me twice as long as it should have to get there!

Song of the Day! "You Only Live Once"- The Strokes from First Impressions of Earth.


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