Surfed at Swamis which is in Cardiff by the Sea, CA for about three hours. Super fun, super long rights that would reform 4-5 times as they worked there way over the reef. Most waves were waist to chest with some bigger sets just peelin' as nice as can be. Set waves were like the one in the video above. Mostly longboards out, and at most there were 10 people at a time at the main peak. Doesn't get much better!
Decided to give y'all a view of the beach and how different it is from here.
Got lunch at a really cool place called Beachside Bar and Grill in Encinitas. Kinda like a Kickin Chickin but Cali style if that makes any sense. Saw a guy who was surfing at Swamis when I was out named Justin who ended up being from Wrightsville. He said it was really lucky to be able to surf at Swamis with so few people since it's such a quality break that is relatively easy to get to.
Came back to Oceanside and surfed this evening for a while. It was bigger here, but not as clean. More people out today than yesterday as well.
Song of the Day! "Don't Stop"- Chali 2na from the Fish Outta Water album. I heard it first on this Quiksilver video of Clay Marzo. http://go.quiksilver.com/go-moments/#/clay-go-moments/ Click it and check it!
P.S. No, I wasn't high in the video from this AM, I had just woken up, that's probably why I looked so rough! No "fish whistle" for me! Haha!