Mid-face turn at Hideaways! It's the wave right out front.
Cutback at Hideaways. This was the most fun session yet!
Working on getting in there.
So it's now the afternoon of day 5 here at Wavepark and I'm starting to get my feet under me finally. It's hard to describe the difference between the waves here and what I'm used to!!! The waves you see above from Kandui are 7-9 feet on the faces and are so incredibly fast that you have a 40% chance of coming out clean or being able to get out the back. So, on the other 60 % you either have to straighten out or take it on the head! If you straighten out, you get pushed in to more shallow reef and stand the chance of taking the next few waves on the head trying to get back out. It's not really dangerous, but not fun either! Kandui is also know as No Kandui for this reason! Hideaways is much less a "wave of consequence" as I have been calling them. We have only surfed it small so far though, but I'm told it is much more makeable than Kandui. We surfed two right handers now as well; Tikis and today, Bank Vaults. Bank Vaults is the place from the video that Jordan posted on the blog earlier. It's is difficult to get photos at Tikis and today at BV's most were fuzzy but I'll try and get some pics of rights soon.
Yesterday at Kandui, my leash came loose and my new Merrick took a trip over the reef, as did I to retrieve it! The reefs are pretty gnarly but I've been using a set of loner booties from my roomie Steven which make reef encounters much more friendly. I got my board back unscathed so I'm thankful for that!
The swell coming looks seriously big so far and needless to say I'm scared!!! There are some spots that won't get out of control big so I'll probably head to those if it gets too big! Last week a guy took a nastly spill and ended up puncturing his torso with a piece of corral! I'm going to try and avoid such an incident! Still taking it slow and picking my spots. I see now how much of a skill barrel riding is! The guides here are spot-on and I'm learning fast as I can!