Surfed today at Kandui a fast barreling left with about a 2 in 5 chance of making it. Surf was solid 7-9 foot faces! It's hard to describe the speed of the wave, it looks like a shoulder but comes up and pitches so fast it's incredible! I caught mostly smaller inside waves, all of which I had to straighten out to avoid getting banged.
Tried to surf a right this afternoon called Tikis but the weather made it quite bumpy. It was nice to see a right after so many lefts. Only two of us paddled out but it was just too bumpy. Reminded me of a BIG north east windswell at home.
Tomorrow looks better though and everyone is pumped after a bottle of Jack Daniels and a few surf videos! Everyone is saying tomorrow is the day they will charge it! I'm planning on taking my time still, lots of days to go! Did get a loner pair of reef booties which help the confidence a lot.
Still having a great time with the guests and all the crew! More to come!
Later,
Seth.
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